[旅遊景點] Batanes, philippines

本帖最後由 hwangks 於 2011-8-26 06:27 PM 編輯 8 U/ I5 @9 M1 g* Q
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After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown. 5 R- D% g0 j' }9 ?$ E

Mahatao Hedgerowstvb now,tvbnow,bttvb& v$ J1 }4 B. q: d' x5 H& s
Photo by Noli Gabilo

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Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.5 t% {) M/ v5 c; `: p
We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.
Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.tvb now,tvbnow,bttvb: l4 B2 W; t2 e( U. |
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Batanes Lighthouse公仔箱論壇) G: | Z6 I1 p, Y7 D4 |
Photo by xave

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The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.
Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway. 公仔箱論壇5 g! ]2 l7 w( Q7 f
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Chavayan Heritage House
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Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.
It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.
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Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port 8 { ^) l9 L# e% s
Photo by Noli Gabilo

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Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency, Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves. l5 i. G; A% ?/ y* v) j F
The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.TVBNOW 含有熱門話題，最新最快電視，軟體，遊戲，電影，動漫及日常生活及興趣交流等資訊。% T* x3 i) S5 A) Y& ]
Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.
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Sabtang Church& H( ^& T$ q' C$ G5 r
Photo by Dave Ryan

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Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.6 C' n" l6 ]" ?( r6 n( E8 z" {8 I
Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach. www.tvboxnow.com. Z7 F7 c9 _% G* u' W# }! v/ V
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Fundacion Pacita
Photo by Dave Ryan

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The formidable looking mountains and hills of Batanes are a great challenge to mountaineers. Mount Iraya on Batan Island rises to about 1,009 meters above sea level and is the highest peak on Batan Island and its spring water is the main source of water for Basco. A good climb for mountaineers, it is also home of the Batanes pit viper, an arboreal snake found only in Batanes and one of the rarest snake species in the world. The Batanes Pit Vipers live on trees and produce their young from eggs hatching within their bodies. They are typically green in color with some others having yellow, black, orange or red markings. Mount Iraya is also home to an abundant number of endemic species of flora and fauna. Some of the flora and fauna that can be found in Batanes are the Indochinese Shrew, Ryukyu Flying Fox, Asian Water Snake and plants like the Voyavoy (a Philippine date palm which is used to make another iconic Batanes item- the Vakul- the traditional headgear for women who use them to protect themselves from the sun, and the rain; the men use the traditional vests called Kanayi and the Salakut as a hat), Kanarem, and Vuhuan. The entire province was declared as a protected landscape and seascape by the Philippine government in 1992." T- X9 P' q: s5 H3 p7 }! B( S

Cows of Batanes
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On Itbayat, there is the Turungan Hill where ancient stone boat-shaped burial markers are found and believed to be the burial ground of the early Ivatans living at the Turungan Cave (believed to be the first landing place of early Austronesians from Taiwan 4,000 years ago) while Mount Ripused, considered as one of the two volcanoes (the other being Mt. Karoobuban – Itbayat’s highest point) that served to be the foundation of Itbayat, has great views southeast portion of the island including the airstrip and Lake Kayaywan. Rapang Cliff, also on Itbayat, is a natural park with rocky hills, cliffs, a forest and a grazing area. One can also find the bonsai version of the native Batanes arius tree which is commonly found all throughout the province. There is a natural stone bell which is a flat stone that lies naturally upon another stone and produces a sound resembling a bell. The stone bell served as warning system for early settlers especially when there were enemies approaching as well as a signal for meetings and goat gathering. There are also hiking opportunities on Dinem Island. Contact Batanes Mountaineers for more information regarding mountaineering in Batanes." j& O& C; y7 T& o
The province also plays host to many lighthouses, the oldest (but now defunct) of which still stands in Mahatao in front of the Mahatao Church. The Basco Lighthouse on Naidi Hills which is also the site of the American era wireless telegraph facilities until being bombed to smithereens by invading Japanese Imperial Army forces is the best place to catch the picturesque Basco sunset. The Basco Lighthouse is considered the oldest working lighthouse in the province now. Other noteworthy lighthouses with gorgeous views would be the Tayid Lighthouse, on the other part of Batan Island facing the South China Sea as well as the Sabtang Island Lighthouse near Sabtang Port.
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Ruins of Sungsung 7 w9 }7 C6 M& R
Photo by Noli Gabilo

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One would also find the remains of what used to be a vibrant village in the town of Uyugan, the Ruins of Sungsung, (a group of destroyed lime and stone houses a few meters from the beach) as it is called, are what is left after the village was wiped out in a tidal wave in 1954. While the houses in Sungsung were unfortunate, the UNESCO World Heritage Building House of Dakay (Vahay ni Dakay) in Ivana survived a big earthquake on September 13, 1918 which leveled the entire town. The House of Dakay, which was built in 1887 by Luisa Estrella, is one of the 5 houses which survived the tremor and went on to become the oldest existing stone house in Batanes. The house was bequeathed by Luisa to her nephew Jose “Dakay” Estrella whom the house was named after. The current occupant is Lola Florestida Estrella, a kind and rather frail looking lady in her advanced years seemed pretty happy to receive us graciously inside her home. Our guide told us afterwards that the old lady needs financial help to keep her and her house going. Also even if she is probably the most photographed woman in Batanes, she doesn’t usually get to see her photos as well. Good thing we showed her the photo that we took of ourselves with her. The house which is pretty much in great condition is made up of stone, coral and lime walls and original shutters and hardwood floors. The roof made out of cogon as is customary in traditional houses in Batanes is changed every 30 years. Also when in Batan, make time to explore Imnajbu, the last village from Basco. When residents are tending to their farms, you will probably see all the doors and windows in the village open. $ x! a0 A& J5 I, l: u9 E

House of Dakay
Photo by lightindependent

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Also check the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, where the Japanese hid during World War 2. Although areas of the tunnel were heavily vandalized and seemed poorly maintained by the local government it is still worth a visit. One can take a torch and a short guided tour inside the elaborate tunnel. Batanes was the site of the first Japanese landing in the Philippines during World War 2 which coincided with the day Pearl Harbor was bombed.4 B1 \& k% h) N
Going even further off the beaten track, there is the sinkhole which works as a giant drain in Itbayat called Manoyok which is believed to be haunted. The sinkhole was found to be around 45 meters deep with two big chambers and a narrow passage between them and apparently, this was where the ancient Ivatans used to throw witches as a punishment. There is also Kumayasakas Cave and water source, an underground stream in the northwest of Itbayat and the Rakuh-a-idi Springs (also known as the Spring of Youth) on Batan Island. If the weather permits, one may even go to the northernmost island of Mavudis (also called Y’ami), an uninhabited island covered with palms and mangoes which also serves as a refuge for fishermen. On a clear day, one can even see Taiwan. All over Batan and Sabtang we saw possible surfing opportunities for advanced surfers, we even saw a surfboard hanging around in Malakdang!tvb now,tvbnow,bttvb5 @6 ^! G& W" w' v2 u
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The Vakulwww.tvboxnow.com% [8 k" R5 Z5 [6 n8 e* D! F: R9 f$ Q
Photo by Dave Ryan

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Batanes Cultural Travel Agency or BCTA probably offers the most consistent and the most definitive travel arrangements for those planning to head out and visit these beautiful islands. We went with BCTA on this trip, and it was a very pleasant one and we were taken care of by their wonderful staff in Manila and their experienced Ivatan tour guides in Batanes. BCTA’s Manila Office is at Unit 201 Parc Chateau, Onyx Road, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, Philippines.

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Excessive noise, rudeness and lack of cultural and environmental concern are frowned upon not only by the Ivatans but travelers like us who are protective of the stunning beauty of these islands. Trust, honesty and community spirit are the operative words here. There are no malls here, no clubs, and no fastfood chains. If you are looking for that then Batanes is not for you, so just leave Batanes alone.TVBNOW 含有熱門話題，最新最快電視，軟體，遊戲，電影，動漫及日常生活及興趣交流等資訊。& O; C) b! j# C' O
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Batanes is perfect for honeymooners and other couples as the province provides a calm, serene and contemplative respite from the noise and chaos of urban living. It also great destination for serious travelers who are more interested in communing with nature and culture at the same time rather than just taking pretty photos and getting senselessly drunk.www.tvboxnow.com" L+ O  U( D# O
One of the main things that we totally love about Batanes was that aside from extremely pretty scenery, amazing culture, great food and hospitable people, it is still in pretty much pristine condition and has not been ravaged by mass tourism as in a lot of places in the country. Due to its relative isolation and because it’s a little more expensive to get to, Batanes tourism, if administered properly, is poised to create an important niche in the tourism industry. For now, it has generally avoided major and noisy crowds looking to make the requisite jump shots of themselves. We hope that it stays that way for good.www.tvboxnow.com% b7 ~: h- B! ]

Best Time to Visit
Depending on which weather you are after, Batanes is a good year round destination, save for the stormy months of July – September. The weather is cool, with the coldest months around December to February when the temperatures drop down to as low as 7C-10C. During the summer months from March to June, the seas are calmer, and trips to other islands are easier. When traveling to Batanes however, you must have a very flexible schedule as flights and boat trips can get canceled at the last minute. If you intend to travel and sufficiently cover most of the main destinations just for Sabtang and Batan, a 4 day trip can suffice, if you wish to head out to Itbayat as well, you may as well make sure that you stay there for a week. But trust us, once you get to Batanes, you actually won’t want to leave.
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Where to Stay For now, there are enough rooms to let in Batanes. We had the pleasure of staying in three different lodgings while we were in the province. While our Sabtang trip was meant to be a day tour, the boatman refused to return to Batan because the waves were really getting rough so we ended up staying the night at the Municipal Guesthouse by Sabtang port. Arranged by BCTA, we had a rather spartan room of two single beds with the window opening to the ocean. With the windows left open to let the cool ocean air in, we slept quite soundly under a blanket. tvb now,tvbnow,bttvb( V9 d# i  D  G1 K- G' s
On the second night, we ended up staying at the clean and convenient Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant in Basco on the main island, run by the very efficient Ms. Lydia Roberto, it is perfect for groups. Batanes Seaside boasts of being the official lodging place of film crews who shot the film Batanes and if I am not mistaken was also the base for the film Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit, a Tagalog adaptation of the film Wuthering Heights.6 d* v0 K8 }( t, y: R* z3 u
For our last night in Batanes, we were invited to stay at the sprawling Fundacion Pacita in Tukun by Ms, Dina Abad. The well-appointed suites adorned with the artworks of up and coming Ivatan artists all sit on a cliff with private verandahs which overlook the gorgeous Pacific Ocean and the nearby fishing village of Diura. The suites are a beautiful fusion of traditional Ivatan architecture with nice maritime touches and a warm country feel. The atmosphere was incredibly dreamy and perfect for honeymooning couples. The next morning we were even invited for a cup of coffee and jam with toast by the owner herself at their main house, whose balcony has well tended topiary and a stunning view of the cliffs and the ocean. Aside from being a haven for Ivatan artists, Fundacion Pacita is also very active in heritage conservation projects all over Batanes which makes it one of our top choices of places to stay in the province.公仔箱論壇, n) j: U* }* X6 A' ~# R7 [4 _3 D
We were meant to stay in a stone house in Diura, but due to the delay from our trip back to Batan, it was too late to arrange lodgings there. Meanwhile, Pension Ivatan’s lodgings by Valugan Beach are only open during the summer season.
Aside from these, there are other places to stay in Batanes and you may have to coordinate with them or the travel agency first before heading out there.
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Where & What to Eat
Before coming to Batanes, we had no idea of the local cuisine and we did not know what to expect except that we asked BCTA to make sure we get authentic Ivatan fare all throughout our stay. And we did.

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Photo by Dave Ryan

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Sabtang is perhaps known for Tatus, the local name for the Coconut Crabs. While I could not verify whether it is an endangered animal, the locals said that during the cold season, the crabs hide and are harder to catch and while we were in Sabtang, apparently we ate the last coconut crab on the island for the season. We do not support eating of endangered animals, and unfortunately we weren’t informed that it is now included among the list of threatened species and taking the Tatus out of Batanes is strictly prohibited. Skip this one out if you can. The crab gets its diet from eating coconuts thus its name, while the meat in its pincers is very difficult to get, the fat was incredibly creamy and has the slight coconut aftertaste. Also in Sabtang, we had grilled Kanañiz, which is literally a squid which is tougher and thicker than what we are used to eating. If you have sensitive teeth, you may want to pass over the Kanañiz.& Z( G4 |' E5 ~* L+ D6 N! B/ \
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Tugi
Photo by Dave Ryan

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While dry and a little too crunchy, Luñis or Adobo Ivatan Style was a tasty twist on this famous Philippine dish. Instead of the usual vinegar, soy and herbs marinade, the Luñis only uses salt and is cooked until dry. Due to the unpredictable weather in Batanes, the Ivatans learned to do preserving techniques for their food to last them during the stormy months. We also had Puhug (Winged Beans or Sigarilyas in Tagalog) mixed with meat which was well cooked and all fresh and Tuhos nu Wakay (Camote Tops/ Talbos ng Kamote) sautéed in garlic which was rather clean tasting compared to the ones in Luzon. I was never a fan of the Luzon variety of Camote Tops, but I could not have stopped myself eating my veggies in Batanes. After all, Ivatans don’t use chemical fertilizers or pesticides- everything is organic!tvb now,tvbnow,bttvb; x0 k8 X3 H: J- p2 _

Hapa, Ivatan Style Laing
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At Rakuh-a-Payaman, we had a massive lunch and extremely delicious too. We almost devoured everything on the table (save for the plates and the cutlery). BCTA prepared such delectable Ivatan food that we are still wistfully thinking of it until this day. Aside from rice, Batanes main staple is root crops which better survive the sometimes harsh weather conditions. This is exemplified with root crop dishes such as the boiled tugi (yam) and the venes, (dried stalks of taro) where the venes is shredded and mixed with meat like beef or pork. Of course there is the hapa, an Ivatan twist to the Bicolano laing where fresh stalks of taro are cooked in fresh coconut milk and sprinkled with tiny dried fish on top, and with the Ivatan classic turmeric rice, it was just heavenly. Interestingly, the Ivatans also grill pork the way I used to, just rub the pork with sea salt and then grill it over charcoal. It gives the meat a more natural flavor and when dipped in spiced silam, (the Ivatan sugarcane vinegar) it is pure joy.

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Be Happy...... It's just a game..... Enjoy !!!!

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